Saturday, 30 April 2011

Rwanda Journal, Entry 23: Uneasiness and The Republic

I have been fighting a strange sense of uneasiness for the past two days. It is not vicious and does not keep me from my business, but it's as present as the wind.

The more I complete, the more the trip begins to feel real; the more uneasy I become. As much as I do to prepare, I constantly feel that I'm forgetting something vital.

I find myself checking my pockets frequently: "Passport? Here. Immunization record? In this one. Where's the camera? Ok, it's on that chair."

Today I got a call from Allan Thompson, he told me Mbonisi had gone missing while en-route to Rwanda. He wondered if I had heard from him, I hadn't.

I got a text later telling me there'd been a mix-up with the travel agent and Mbonisi had arrived safely in Kigali.

It's everything I've been feeling in a single event.

There is nothing I can do to address uneasiness I can't trace and so I have stopped trying. Instead, I've been acting on a strong desire to attend to spiritual and intellectual interests.

I've owned a copy of Plato's Republic for years now, but had not read much of it until this week. Now I can think of nothing I'd rather do than read about Socrates and his buddies, drinking Olde English at the Agora. There is something comforting in the meticulous logic of the text; it makes me feel grounded.

Even so, I'm really only able to relate to Socrates' Athenian friends, the ones with questions and few answers. I'm not sure what to make of that exactly. I wouldn't feel consistent if I could.

Friday, 29 April 2011

Rwanda Journal, Entry 22: Friday, April 29th

Today was full of more activity than I'm able to recount coherently now. I have more travel documents and fewer tasks; but the details have blurred together and I'm not sure how to separate them. I'll rest, reflect and try to sort them out in the morning.

(UPDATE: Saturday, April 30th)

Accomplished on Friday, April 29th:
  • Submitted pre-departure research report to the International Student Services Office.
  • Received vaccination document for yellow fever.
  • Received visa information from Rwandan Embassy.
  • Confirmed housing and logistical arrangements in Kigali.
  • Made payment arrangements with travel agent.

Thursday, 28 April 2011

Rwanda Journal, Entry 21: The City that Blew Away

It feels like nature is angry.

The wind is impossibly powerful and violent. Around the city, gusts of grit-filled air sting the eyes and knock down trees. When the trees hit power lines, or homes, the damage is extraordinary.

Emergency crews have been darting about the city all day. Police act as wardens where lights have lost power;  firemen work to remove broken branches before they smash houses. I haven't seen many ambulances yet, and I'm glad for that.

I surveyed the destruction with my friend Tony, earlier. He owns a minivan and agreed to help me move a bed from my mother's house in Alta Vista.

We were blown away by the wind's intensity.  I saw a 30-foot pine tree uprooted and splayed out along someone's front lawn. Bins and boxes, put out for trash day, were thrown into fences; garbage lined the sidewalks.

I did not think to bring my camera on the trip, and soon regretted it. But I may have another chance to take photos tomorrow. We have to go collect the other half of the bed.

When Tony and I got to my mother's house, we realized the box spring would not fit in the van. We were able to squeeze the mattress into the back, but the only way to transport the box spring was on the roof. We didn't dare try to tie it down.

We agreed it could only end one of two ways if we did. Either the box spring would fly off the van and hit a traffic warden; or it would turn the minivan into a kite with no strings. We didn't want either and decided to go back for it when the wind dies down.

I have just learned that Environment Canada has a wind warning in effect throughout the city... obviously.

Tuesday, 26 April 2011

Rwanda Journal, Entry 20: A Report for the Man, part 2

I've posted the first draft of my pre-departure report.  It's a bit of a cop out as a blog post,  I know.

But there's some useful information about the programs I'm doing and about the place I'll be going.

I haven't had reason to put it into the blog until now and I'm not the type to do the same job twice unless I have to.

                                    *                                      *                                          *
Introduction:

     The Ontario Global Edge program seeks to promote a culture of entrepreneurship and competitiveness among Canadian youth. As a participant in the program, I am committed to these goals and have created learning objectives that reflect this commitment. My OGE internship has been jointly arranged through a media development project called the Rwanda Initiative, based out of Carleton’s journalism school. The Rwanda Initiative has separate objectives for its interns, requiring them to learn about journalism and its place in a developing society like Rwanda. I have established learning objectives to satisfy the components of this program as well. The first three relate to OGE program, the final two relate to the Rwanda Initiative.

Learning Objectives:
  • To better understand the role of small to mid-size business in the global marketplace.

  • To better understand the challenges and struggles of building and operating a small to mid-size business in a developing economy and society.

  • To broaden my understanding of global business culture and develop the skills and knowledge to compete at the international level.

  • To practice journalism and gain reporting experience in a foreign country.

  • To employ my skills and training to support the work of an emerging media outlet.
     I am fully confident that my placement at Kigali Unplugged, a start-up entertainment magazine in Rwanda will allow me to meet these objectives. I have been in contact with members of the staff and reviewed the magazine. It is a credible opportunity to learn about reporting and building a small business in the developing world.

Economic Overview of Rwanda:

     Rwanda is a poor rural economy located in the heart of Central Africa. The CIA World Factbook reports that as many as 90 per cent of the country’s 11,370,425 people rely on agriculture (largely subsistence farming) and agro-processing as their primary means of survival.  Mineral extraction and processing (gold, tin ore, tungsten ore and methane) have also become important industries, in 2008 minerals overtook coffee and tea as Rwanda’s primary export. Despite the numbers involved in agriculture, tourism remains Rwanda’s most profitable industry and supports the remaining 10 per cent of Rwandans involved in service-based industries.

     Rwanda has enjoyed 17 years of stability and growth following the end of the civil war in the mid-nineties. Even so Rwanda remains a deeply impoverished country with an uncertain economic future. Rwanda ranks 152nd out of 162 countries on the Human Development Index (HDI) and has been classified as a Heavily Indebted Poor Country (HIPC) by the International Monetary Fund. Rwanda’s per capita income is $1,100 (USD) meaning few Rwandans have the purchasing power to support a globally competitive marketplace. The 2008 recession weakened the market for Rwanda exports but it has gradually improved. In 2010, the country’s growth rate was 6 per cent, up from 4.5 per cent the year before.

     In the absence of extensive foreign investment intra-African trade has become central to Rwanda’s economic survival. The CIA World Factbook indicates that Kenya, Democratic Republic of the Congo and Swaziland account for more than half of Rwanda’s export revenues (Kenya: 33.88 per cent; DRC: 13.56 per cent; Swaziland: 5.43 per cent.) Rwanda is an active member of the African Union and other regional trade bodies that aim to promote economic integration.

Relationship with Canada:

     Canada has maintained diplomatic relations with Rwanda since its independence from Belgium in 1962. Canadian general Roméo Dallaire was force commander of the United Nations Assistance Mission for Rwanda during the ’94 genocide; Canadian development agencies have established large aid networks in the country; and Canadian legal experts are active in bringing genocidaires to justice at the International Criminal Tribunal for Rwanda.  Despite these points of connection, trade and investment between the two countries is paltry. According to 2010 figures from Industry Canada, Canada exported  $1,217,454 worth of goods and imported $455,476. According to the Department of Foreign Affars and International Trade, Canada’s limited economic interest in the country focuses Rwanda’s electricity production and distribution industries, investments in infrastructure and information technology. Regardless of modest trade and private sector investment, the Government of Canada has committed itself to a rage of aid projects in Rwanda, focusing particularly on the agricultural sector.

Details of the Placement:

     I have confirmed an 8-week placement at an entertainment and lifestyle magazine called Kigali Unplugged from May to July. Douglas Mugerwa, founder and managing editor of the magazine tells me the magazine needs content and help with business development. Mugerwa has sent me a letter of invitation that I will use to apply for a Rwandan student visa.  While I have yet to be given a formal title–and may not receive one– I expect to have responsibilities similar to a junior-level marketing and sales manager. Kigali Unplugged needs to attract new advertising partners, improve its web-presence and strengthen its branding, all tasks usually associated with a marketing and sales position. These aspects of the placement should allow me to accomplish the learning objectives associated with the Ontario Global Edge program:
  • To better understand the role of small to mid-size business in the global marketplace.

  • To better understand the challenges and struggles of building and operating a small to mid-size business in a developing economy and society.

  • To broaden my understanding of global business culture and develop the skills and knowledge to compete at the international level.
I have also been asked to contribute content for the publication. As an entertainment and lifestyle magazine this will likely involve interviewing artists, attending concerts and events and reporting on the cultural industries. These are tasks similar to Canadian arts reporter, and should allow me to satisfy the objectives associated with the Rwanda Initiative:
  • To practice journalism and gain reporting experience in a foreign country.

  • To employ my skills and training to support the work of an emerging media outlet.
Conclusion:

     I will arrive in Kigali in mid-May, began my 8-week internship and return to Canada in mid-July. I have created learning objectives to structure my experience and satisfy the requirements of the Ontario Global Edge program and Rwanda Initiative, respectively. These will be the metrics by which I gauge the success of my internship experience, in an educational sense. I believe these objectives are realistic and achievable given the responsibilities I will have during my placement at Kigali Unplugged.
 
Appendix:



Monday, 25 April 2011

Rwanda Journal, Entry 19: A Report for the Man

I woke up from an odd dream with a faint recollection of something I'd been told weeks ago.

It was something I needed to do; something I needed to give to someone.

The answer came to me when I began thumbing through a red folder I'd been given by Sara Lanoue, coordinator of the Ontario Global Edge program at Carleton, a few weeks ago.

"Damn it! I have to write a pre-departure report and give it to the school by the 29th," I said.

I know this doesn't seem so bad. I have four odd days to get it together and the document is quite straightforward. Even so, I feel strangely jolted at having to account for my expectations.

For weeks, I've been excitedly speculating on what I might find in Rwanda; what experiences I might have. But as I sit down to draft a formal report that outlines what I hope to gain from the experience I hesitate.

I'm not easily able to distill what I want to get out of this. I hope to learn about journalism and business as the Rwanda Initiative and OGE expect me to.

But I really hope to learn about the people, how they speak, think and act. I want to know what it is to live in a place where Hell appeared and receded. I want to know why some people care about other far away and others don't.

I doubt these are the kinds of things I will include in the report though.

                         *                              *                              *

So far, this is how much I've got:


Ontario Global Edge: Pre-departure Report
Submitted by: Cameron MacIntosh, April 29th, 2011

Introduction:

     The Ontario Global Edge program seeks to promote a culture of entrepreneurship and competitiveness among Canadian youth. As a participant in the program, I am committed to these goals and wish to ensure that 

Learning Objectives:

1.   To better understand the role of small to mid-size business in the global marketplace.

2.   To better understand the challenges and struggles of building and operating a small to mid-size business in a developing economy and society.

3.   To practice journalism and gain reporting experience in a foreign country.

4.   To employ my skills and training to support the work of an emerging media outlet.

5.    To broaden my understanding of global business culture and develop the skills and knowledge to compete at the international level. 

Economic Overview:
    
     Rwanda is a poor rural economy located in the heart of Central Africa. The CIA World Factbook reports that as many as 90 per cent of the country’s 11,370,425 people rely on agriculture (largely subsistence farming) and agro-processing as their primary means of survival.  Mineral extraction and processing (gold, tin ore, tungsten ore and methane) have also become important industries, in 2008 minerals overtook coffee and tea as Rwanda’s primary export. Despite the numbers involved in agriculture, tourism remains Rwanda’s most profitable industry and supports the remaining 10 per cent of Rwandans involved in service-based industries.

Placement details:

     I have been confirmed a placement at a publication called Kigali Unplugged. 

Saturday, 23 April 2011

Rwanda Journal, Entry 18: Robbed by Children!!!

I went out for shawarma today and witnessed a robbery.

It was pretty scary, and I'm a little shaken up.  Even so, I managed to post a link to a slideshow about the incident.

I went into Shawarma Town on Bank Street at around noon, and found myself at the mercy of a hardened criminal.

Luckily, I had my camera and was able to document the whole thing. I wasn't able to get his face but I heard people shouting his name, Hadi; I shudder every time I hear it.

I appreciate your support, it sucks feeling like a victim. Just because the robber was four, and his father owned the place does not make that any less true.

Friday, 22 April 2011

Rwanda Journal, Entry 17: Room with a View

Same kind as mine.
It's Good Friday and I'm holding my camera for the trip.

I am now the proud owner of a Canon SX10IS.

It is the first DSLR I've ever owned. I've been fooling around with it all day.
I spent most of today at Tech Wall, a legal graffiti wall across from where I live. It's a photogenic place.
Countless grafitti artists paint at the wall, and in the summertime it changes weekly.
At 4:30, a group of Indians (not painting at the wall) struck up a game of cricket. I set my camera to SPORT MODE, the setting for intense action. I'm seeking out intense action all the time because of this setting.

 
I've started a Picassa account to go along with the camera. It's basically Google's answer to flickr, and will let me catalogue the shots I take.

You can link to the gallery through the photostream on the left. I'll update it sometimes, so check it out.

Thursday, 21 April 2011

Rwanda Journal, Entry 16: Shot Through the Arm (again)

I feel like I have yellow fever.

It's not that I have the symptoms yet; I literally just received the vaccination. It's more the knowledge that a virus, which has claimed hundreds of thousands of human lives, is coursing through my blood stream.

The nurse told me it was just a small amount the immune system can fight off. The needle was too big for that to be true. All I can do now is nervously consult WebMD and await the inevitable.  

I've been told to expect flu-like symptoms from the vaccination. Sudden fever and chills, acute nausea, headaches. Still, that sounds better than getting yellow fever and bleeding from my eyes!?! Jesus!

I mean it's not the worst disease ever, but if it means not having to deal with jaundice and worse, I'll suffer through the needle.

It's like Soren Bowie says, shots bring you one step close to invincibility, so I guess that's good. If I'm going to have one weakness, I'm glad it won't be to a condition that makes blood spring from my eyes. Even kryptonite wasn't that bad.
Ok, this may be worse.

Aside from that, Rwandan authorities won't let me in the country unless I'm immunized for it. Yellow fever is one of the few absolutely mandatory vaccinations. Once I've got the shots I need, I'll be able to apply for my student visa.

Before then I have to run to Montréal and buy a camera from my friend, Pascale. I'm heading off to do that now.

Wednesday, 20 April 2011

Rwanda Journal, Entry 15: Up in Smoke

It's April the 20th or 4:20, if that doesn't already mean something to you, don't worry about it.

The weather gods have blessed Ottawa's counterculture with a blustery, wet day that would test the resolve of Marc Emery himself. I'm curious to know how many have made the trip up the hill.

Anyway, this is all an aside; this blog is about my trip to Rwanda.

I spent a good chunk of yesterday making phone calls and arrangements. Hopefully, I'll have something to show for it by the end of the week.

I am running to Montréal tomorrow to pick up a camera from my friend, Pascale. She's leaving for Ethiopia on Friday and has an old Canon SX10IS she's selling.

Once I figure out how to use the thing, I'll start posting photos. People seem to prefer posts with pictures and I'll be able to avoid copyright infringement, so it's a win-win for everyone.

Beyond arranging to pick up the camera I also got my first quotes for airfare to Kigali. I spoke to a very helpful fellow from McCord Travel yesterday, and an equally helpful fellow from Travel Cuts the day before that. In both cases, the price was around $2,000(CAD). I have a bit more time to shop around and will see what happens.

McCord Travel is the agency recommended by Allan Thompson, who travels to Rwanda every few months, so I guess he knows what he's talking about.

Aside from talking airfare, I spoke with the pharmacy that will issue my next round of injections. I have an appointment tomorrow and can't wait to get more needles. Not actually.

I'm most anxious about the vaccination for yellow fever. Unlike some of the other vaccines, yellow fever is an actual virus they inject into your body. If you think that sounds unpleasant, I agree with you.

Between travel vaccinations and trips to Montréal I expect tomorrow will be pretty interesting.  For today, I'm mostly just going to take it easy and wait out the rain.

I wonder if it's worth heading up to the hill, as a journalist of course.

Tuesday, 19 April 2011

Rwanda Journal, Entry 14: April 19th, 2011

Ran around like a mad person and am pretty sure I accomplished something. Hard to say exactly what, but it was something.

Truth be told, I am actually pretty exhausted and will need to expand on this post tomorrow.

Past Rwanda Initiative interns tell me it is important to experience things and not be obsessive about documenting them; so maybe it's for the best.

I'll keep this blog up-to-date because I enjoy it, but I hope people can forgive me if I get caught up in the goings on.

More tomorrow, I promise.

Monday, 18 April 2011

Rwanda Journal, Entry 13: Travel Insurance is Sorted

Arranged my travel insurance today, went through Travel Cuts.

I came pretty close to purchasing my plane ticket along with it, but settled on getting an ISIC card instead. I'd like to shop around before I book my flight.

I will probably get shots tomorrow then off to Montréal the day after.I need to pick up a camera from my friend, who is selling one for cheap.

I haven't decided if I will go to Fredericton from there yet.

Sunday, 17 April 2011

Rwanda Journal, Entry 12: Waxing Descriptive

It's Sunday and the sun is out after a night of heavy rain.

There's a chill in the air and a wind that cuts through the nylon fabric of my shirt. Heavy clouds are pushed about the sky, challenging for control of the blue space above.

The street below is noisy. Busses thunder by on their Sunday schedules, fewer than usual but still enough to disturb the silence. It's an ominous scene when the clouds block out the sun.

Then the clouds break and the scene is beauty.

It's a day for reflection. The forces of nature are on benign display. Each shift in the weather triggers emotion, the kind innate to our species; the kind implanted by countless generations of evolution. I have no tasks or assignments more important than this.

I am going for a walk, I plan to listen to the birds.

Saturday, 16 April 2011

Rwanda Journal, Entry 11: Gorillas in the Mist

It's raining in Ottawa and I've been puttering around the house.

Yesterday, I bought a bush shirt from MEC that I'm wearing while thumbing through a Rwanda travel guide. I feel adventurous.

The guide, produced by a company called Bradt, has a picture of a mountain gorilla (presumably from Rwanda) on its front cover.

According to the guide,Volcanoes National Park, located in the Northwest, above Lake Kivu, protects "more than half the world's population of the charismatic mountain gorilla."
Volcanoes National Park, sometimes referred to by it's French name, Parc Des Volcans, has been featured prominently in popular culture.

In 1987, Canadian author and conservationist Farley Mowat published two books about Dian Fossey, the researcher who spent more than 18 years in the park with Rwanda's mountain gorillas.

Virunga: The Passion of Dian Fossey and Woman in the Mists: The story of Dian Fossey both received critical acclaim.

Fossey's story was also adapted for the 1988 film, Gorilla's in the Mist.


Past participants in the Rwanda Initiative tell me the gorillas are not to be missed but I will have to see if I can afford it. Apparently, gorilla tracking safaris are quite expensive, between $500-$1000 (CDN) though I am told there are student rates.

It seems like something worthwhile so I'll figure something out.

In the meantime, I am going to try streaming Gorilla's in the Mist to spite the rain.

DID YOU KNOW?
  • There are only 786 mountain gorillas left in the world.


  • Humans and gorillas are 98% genetically identical.


  • Male silverback gorillas can weigh 50-100 pounds more - and are about 10 times stronger - than the biggest American football players.


  • When the group is attacked by humans, leopards, or other gorillas, the silverback will protect them even at the cost of his own life.

Source: African Wildlife Foundation

Friday, 15 April 2011

Rwanda Journal, Entry 10: Terry Seguin is the Fonz

The weather in Ottawa has been beautiful and it's distracting me from any task that requires time in an office; I didn't really get much official done yesterday.

On the plus side, I had a stimulating discussion with one of the producers of Information Morning Fredericton, the CBC morning news show in my hometown.


CBC wants to interview me about my trip. I think that's awesome.

We haven't settled on a final date for the interview, but the producer told me to call him when I'm back in New Brunswick.

I'm pleased to be featured on Information Morning, I actually quite like the show.

Terry Seguin is the host and, like many CBC personalities, is something of a local celebrity.

Pleasantly, Seguin is also kind of a badass. He asks tough questions and isn't afraid to go fisticuffs with New Brunswick's power brokers.

Terry Seguin, back in the day.
Seguin went toe-to-toe with former premier of New Brunswick, Shawn Graham, over the sale of NB Power to Hydro Quebec on a number of occasions.

The proposed sale was controversial and triggered a province-wide backlash that cost Graham the next election.   

Seguin did his job and put Graham in the hotseat over the proposal. He also earned himself some Fonzie cred in my books.

"Good job, Terry. EHHHH!!!"
In an industry governed by ratings and focus groups, it's nice when broadcasters make good use of their rostrum. Too many don't. That's right, Jian, I'm calling you out.

Anyway,  I'm excited to share this adventure with my hometown. It satisfies the Rwanda Initiative's public engagement requirement but it's more than that. It's a reminder that I've been given a chance to participate in something extraordinary; something that people want to be a part of.

People have been generous with their attention, support and advice. Keep it coming and I'll keep posting. Cam, out.

Thursday, 14 April 2011

Rwanda Journal, Entry 9: Missing the Sea

Exam is done and it's back to travel preparation. Travel insurance, Rwandan student visa and vaccinations are next on the agenda. Once these are taken care of, I'm heading back to the Maritimes.

I'm excited about heading home, Ottawa starts to wear on me. I miss the ocean and don't feel like myself when I'm away from it for too long. Not sure why exactly, but I guess I was raised in coastal areas and never quite adapted to the climate anywhere else.

I'll need to soak it up when I head home this time, Rwanda is landlocked. Despite this, Rwanda borders one of Africa's largest bodies of water and I am unbelievably excited to see it.
 Lake Kivu lies on the border between Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo. For generations it has supported fishermen in both countries. 
In the mid-nineties–at roughly the same time that the Atlantic fishery was collapsing–armed conflict in the surrounding areas forced many fisherman to flee. I'd quite like to examine the state of the fisheries in the region today. 

I'm curious to know whether people have returned to it or not, I guess we'll see. 

SPECIAL NEWS BULLETIN:
I just got off the phone with a producer for CBC's Information Morning Fredericton. They want to interview me about the trip sometime in the next few weeks! Keep following the blog for a link to broadcast. 

Tuesday, 12 April 2011

Rwanda Journal, Entry 8: April 12th, 2011

My final exam of the term is tomorrow, and today will be dedicated to preparing for it.

Monday, 11 April 2011

Rwanda Journal, Entry 7: Placement at Kigali Unplugged


I have received confimation of my placement from the Rwanda Initiative.

I will be interning at an outlet called Kigali Unplugged, an entertainment publication that focuses on Rwandan arts and culture.

The publication does have some web presence but I think it could do with some development. I guess I'll have to wait and see what they're looking for.

My internship requires that I practice journalism (Rwanda Initiative) and do business development (Ontario Global Edge program.) From what I've seen KU could probably use both.

Next steps, documentation.

With my letter of invitation, I will be able to apply for my Rwandan student visa. I'll also need proof that I have had the required vaccinations and adequate travel insurance.

But this will have to wait until after my exam.

Sunday, 10 April 2011

Rwanda Journal, Entry 6: Nick Nolte WTF?

Not a long post today. It's Sunday and I'm very busy with nothing in particular.

I should be studying but just downloaded the movie, Hotel Rwanda, and am watching it instead.

I guess I'm eager for some feeling of the country I'll be traveling to.   

I definitely plan to visit the Hotel Des Mille Collines when I get to Kigali if for no other reason than Hollywood has inflated my expectations to unsustainable proportions.

Also, past interns tell me it has an amazing pool.

In the film, Don Cheadle plays Paul Rusesabagina,who managed the Hotel Des Mille Collines in '94.

Rusesabagina, a Hutu businessman, used his contacts and influence to save over 1,200 people.

It is based on a true story though they made some irritating changes.

For one, they replaced Dallaire's character with someone called Colonel Oliver, played by Nick Nolte. The character is portrayed as whiny and ineffectual, which annoyed me.

I'm not really sure why they picked Nolte; I guess he's had his share of hard times too.


But he doesn't project a genuine understanding of his subject. Colonel Oliver just sort of runs around in a blue beret looking confused or upset the whole time. It's irksome.

"There were two of them, they were so mean to me."
He doesn't even have a mustache, which, let's face it, is central to Dallaire's character. It's also probably the reason Nolte never made it beyond colonel.

Anyway, it's a good movie and Cheadle does a fine job but it's not my favourite out there.

As long as they don't try to make a sequel it should be alright.

                                                *                         *                          *

Films I'm watching and would not recommend to my parents:

Sometimes in April

Shake Hands With the Devil

Hotel Rwanda

Ghosts of Rwanda, PBS Frontline documentary

Saturday, 9 April 2011

Rwanda Journal, Entry 5: I heart Roméo Dallaire

Thanks to Katie Beaudette for this shot.

I met one of my heroes last night.

Senator Roméo Dallaire spoke at the event to mark the 5th anniversary of the Rwanda Initiative.

Close to 150 interns and dozens of dignitaries who've supported the project over the years gathered at Carleton University's Fenn Lounge.

Robert Fowler, the Canadian diplomat who was kidnapped in Niger, was there. So was the Rwandan ambassador to Canada, who is called Mukabagwiza Edda, according to the embassy's website.

The entertainment was all very African, which I guess makes sense.

Rwandan dancers performed to traditional music; graceful beauties in flowing purple and orange dresses. Each wore bells that jangled as they passed. It was a lovely scene.

But the highlight was Dallaire. He delivered an eloquent speech about the importance of the initiative's effort to improve media education in Rwanda.

I've met Dallaire twice before but this time was unique. I found our previous meetings unsatisfying for one reason or another. Not so this time.

I first met Dallaire when he spoke to my conflict reporting class in November. He is a friend of Allan Thompson and agreed to join us. I'm sorry to say, it was a little dissapointing.

Dallaire tried to condense a presentation of 120 slides into 30 minutes and the result was a rushed and rambling tirade about human rights or whatever.

It actually became quite funny when my friend Mbonisi Zikhali, a fellow intern from Zimbabwe, arrived late and missed Dallaire's introduction.

Mbonisi, shown here looking dangerous.

Mbo had no idea who was speaking and became more and more annoyed by the general's presentation.

Where most saw a larger than life figure crammed into a small room, Mbo saw a white man lecturing him about Africa.

When it came time for the question and answer session, Mbo snapped and went on a rambling tirade of his own. The general cut him off and mind punched him in the chest.

When Mbo googled "Romeo Dallaire" he felt bad.

"I didn't know I was picking a fight with Gandhi," he said the next day.

I died. 

Anyway, I spoke to Dallaire when he was in class that time. It was alright.

The second time I met Dallaire was at the Ottawa International Writer's Festival in December.

My friend Charith (the brown one) with Dallaire. Charith did not pick a fight with him.
He was there to promote his book on child soldiers, They Fight like Soldiers, They Die like Children.

This time the general delivered the same presentation that he had in class but he had two hours. The man was a goddamn rockstar.

As you can kind of tell from the above photo, Dallaire is almost always stalked by beautiful twenty somethings. If you're throwing a party and you want girls to come, tell them Roméo Dallaire will be there.

I spoke to Dallaire this time as well and was able to remind him about our previous meeting. I don't think he remembered me but when you spend your days surrounded by crowds of fawning twenty-somethings, I imagine they begin to blend together.

Despite his bravura performance, I couldn't really connect for some reason. The third time was different.

At this event their were whispered mentions about when Dallaire would arrive but he was not the center of attention. The night was about Allan Thompson and the 150 interns who'd been selected to participate in the Rwanda Initiative.

When Dallaire did arrive, there was something markedly different than at the other two occassions.

He entered the room quietly with his assistant, little fanfare. I was determined to meet him and promptly moved to greet him.

The general was friendly but there was something heavy in his tone. His face was lined and set with the expression of someone limping.

I asked if we could get a photo together, he told me to wait and then made his way to the podium.

Thanks to Jennifer Pagliaro for this shot.

"This is a tough time of year for me," he began. "When April comes, I usually spend most of it cloistered away in my office. But when Allan told me about this event I knew I couldn't refuse."

There was something so candid and sincere in his praise of the work done by the Rwanda Initiative. It was not lofty rhetoric but a heartfelt belief in what he was saying that made it feel real. (Link to Dallaire's speech.)

"Journalists are the instruments of freedom, the voice of democracy," he said.

He called Allan a hero who'd fought to bring hope to the Rwandan people. It was inspiring.

After his presentation, Dallaire agreed to be photographed with me. It is the picture featured at the top of this post. It's also my facebook profile picture and will probably stay up there for a good long time.

Dallaire is a man who has witnessed the most profound evil imaginable. In spite of the damage and trauma of the experience, he remains vibrant and committed to humanity.   

We live in confusing times where it's hard to find people to believe in. But if your lucky you can find them, and if you're very lucky they enter your life somehow.

I am very lucky.

Friday, 8 April 2011

Rwanda Journal, Entry 4: Shot Through the Arm

A big day planned. I have an appointment at the travel clinic and expect to get at least 90 shots per arm.

There is also a ceremony to mark the fifth anniversary of the Rwanda Initiative, the program sending me to Africa. Lt.Gen. Roméo Dallaire, a long time supporter of the initiative, will be speaking. I have attached a link to the news release for anyone that's interested.

I'll let you know how everything goes later.

Oh, and a big thank you to the people that have started following the blog. I promise to keep updating you on events as they unfold. I imagine it will become more interesting when I actually get to Rwanda.

Thursday, 7 April 2011

Rwanda Journal, Entry 3: A Day to Mourn

I cannot help but feel a little ashamed of myself. While I am here in Ottawa making silly jokes about the things I need to bring, Rwandans are paying tribute to loved ones lost 17 years ago today.

On April 7th, 1994 Hutu militias set up roadblocks and began murdering Tutsis and moderate Hutus in their homes. 

I am determined that this blog not be about the Rwandan genocide. There has been so much written about it already. I want to see the country for what it is now, not what it was then.

But today it is right to honour the dead and acknowledge the human tragedy experienced by the Rwandan people and witnessed by the world.

In the spirit of paying tribute to the events of the past, I've embedded a link to a trailer for the documentary, "Shake Hands with the Devil: The Journey of Roméo Dallaire." It is an extraordinary work about Dallaire's return to Rwanda for the 10th anniversary of the genocide.

Shake Hands with the Devil: The Journey of Roméo Dallaire


If anyone is interested I can try to upload the full video.

Rwanda Journal, Entry 2: Hot List Action

I woke up too early this morning and could not get back to sleep. Mind and to-do list both too full I guess.

Rather than lie sleepless in bed for another half hour, I figured I'd get a meaningful start on the day. Unfortunately, my internet connection is really good at this hour so I got distracted with this blog post. Best laid plans...

I've decided to make a list of the things I need to do and the items I need to gather before I leave. With any luck, I'll bore myself and fall back to sleep. It's listed more or less in order of importance/whatever popped into my head at the time:
  • Bottle of single malt scotch- Liquor is surprisingly expensive in Kigali and good scotch can be hard to come by. The administrators tell me creature comforts are important or something.

  • Plane ticket/boarding pass to Kigali International-Haven't given much thought to this as of yet. Still have a bit of time to arrange this. Allan Thompson, the director of the Rwanda Initiative, has recommended a travel agency to deal with. More on that later.

  • Immunization history- I need this for my travel health consultation tomorrow. Once they know what shots I've had, they'll give me more shots. I think I need vaccinations against rubella, typhoid fever, yellow fever, hepatitis (A,B,C), malaria, tuberculosis and rabies. More injections than Will Burroughs y'all!

  • Travel insurance- I hear Travel CUTS is the way to go for student travel. Whoever I go with I'll try to get some with some sweet repatriation benefits! (I can't imagine that link is going to reassure my loved ones any. Oh well.)

  • International student visa- Rwanda did not require Canadians to have a special travel visa until recently but the requirements are pretty straight forward.

  • Camera and memory cards- I've been in touch with a photographer friend of mine who's selling an old DSLR for a pretty good price. I plan to document the hell out of this trip as you've probably already noticed. I'm hoping to make tens of dollars from my mad journalistic skills.

  • Assorted toiletries- As mundane as it seems, shampoo, conditioner, hand soap, shaving cream, razors, toothpaste, deodorant, jasmine-scented exfoliating body scrub with tea tree oil and hydrating beads, etc. are quite expensive in Rwanda. According to Allan, the quality is also "inconsistent," which I assume means bad.

  • Computer/word processer- I am still debating whether or not to take my current MacBook or invest in something smaller, cheaper and more lightweight for the trip. I'm thinking an iPad with a keyboard attachment might work pretty well. Or else one of those little PCs that all the Asians in the library use. (Note: I seriously debated whether that last sentence would get taken the wrong way. Thanks for making it awkward Alexandra Wallace.)

  • Monies- Despite everyone's impression of the developing world,  the cost of living in Rwanda is pretty high. One Canadian dollar is worth about 600 Rwandan francs but you will pay around $2.50(CAD) for a loaf of bread. It's not terrible but it's not like I can live like a king on what's left of my student loans. Apparently, I'll need to convert what monies I have into American dollars and trade those for Rwandan francs. The locals think Canadian dollars are stupid.

  • Medications- Take what I said about about assorted toiletries and sub-in the words "medically necessary, life-saving drugs."

  • Gluten-Free food (pasta, flours, etc.)- Do you have any idea what foods are made with gluten at restaurants in Canada? Try asking in Kinyarwanda. Which reminds me:

  • English-Kinyarwanda dictionary- I assuming such a thing exists. Sweet, it sort of does.
Anyway, I think I'll cut the list short for now. It is hardly comprehensive but my brain is hurting and I want to go eat breakfast. I'm gonna practice asking people what items have gluten in Kinyarwanda. Wish me luck!

Wednesday, 6 April 2011

Rwanda Journal, Entry 1: Are you Ready for an Internet?

It's a cold evening in April. I am sitting in my bedroom in Ottawa. Beneath my window, which looks over a busy intersection and a legal graffiti wall, buses thunder by.

I was told earlier today that I should start this blog. During the Ontario Global Edge Program's pre-departure orientation, the program's health adviser said it would be a good way to deal with travel stress and culture shock.

"If you're able to compartmentalize things, It's easier to manage," she told me.

It wasn't a tough sell really. Especially after the OGE administrator said blogging would satisfy part of the public engagement requirement attached to my travel grant. I also have to do some reports or something but I'm not worrying about that now.

I'm in the paperwork/preparation phase of the trip. These are both important steps, especially for the people sending me to Kigali, Rwanda.

Aside from administrative necessity, there are humanitarian reasons for this blog. My parents are both anxious about the trip and my friend Ron keeps making uncomfortable references to that movie, The Last King of Scotland; the one where James McAvoy gets his ass kicked by Idi Amin (Forest Whitaker.)

It's good movie and a fair comparison. Everyone but my parents should check it out. Here's the link to the trailer: http://youtu.be/iV_QgKJFZP0

Anyway, I hope this blog will reassure, or at least inform my loved ones about what's going on while I'm away.  Never fear mom and dad, If I get into trouble this blog will use its Internet to sort it out.

In all seriousness, I have to say I'm more worried about getting tickets, travel insurance, vaccinations, official documents, visas, proper clothes, medications, memory cards and money to pay for everything than I am about my safety.

Rwanda is one of the most stable and safe countries in Central Africa. It has its share of crime, like any impoverished and densely populated area, but so does New York City.

It's also a hell of a lot safer than the Democratic Republic of the Congo, its neighbour to the West. Or Uganda, it's neighbour to the North. I won't exacerbate my parents worries by going to either of those places... this time.